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Australasia -
New Zealand
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Tuesday, 27 February 2007 00:00 |
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Funny how things happen. I closed the last diary
entry reflecting on how little had actually happened to us on a
personal level since arriving in New Zealand. We have met some lovely
Kiwis, shared many tips about New Zealand with them and generally found
them to be nice people, but little had actually happened to write
about. Well, we left off with us in a place called Tuatenpere, that
has a nice campsite, some good sausages, but little else. That night
we landed ourselves up at a campsite near Gore called Dolamore Park and
it is gorgeous. The park was set up by the council from a donation
made to them by the Dolamore family of £38,000 in 1947. This donation
allowed the council to keep the park up and running. The park is a 95
hectare area of beautiful wild lands with little to spoil it apart from
some excellently cut grass areas for picnicking and camping. The night
we arrived there were 4 campervans at the park. We were soon set up
and in the kitchen cooking dinner. A little later on a man approached
us and told us that he was closing the gates to the park and that they
would be open again at 6am. This man is Paul. Paul lives in the house
in the park, but works at the meat packaging factory about 20kms down
the road. Anyway, as we are talking a large Burmese/Siamese hybrid cat
walks towards us, immediately Paul says “You didn’t see that” and then
tells us that because the park is a bird sanctuary he is not allowed to
have cats and that, because of the wildcat problem in New Zealand
(there are packs of feral cats roaming NZ) they shoot them on site.
The cat that has walked over to us is named “Diesel” and belongs to his
daughter who lives with her mother on the North Island, but is visiting
Paul for 4 weeks during the holidays, she bought the cat, much to his
shock, so they have had the cat locked up in the laundry room during
the day and are letting it out at night. He then tells us “The
caretaker, Vic (lovely man), shot 2 the other day, I was immediately
worried, but then I remembered it was alright, because we’ve only got
the 1”. Now, I don’t know about you but the logic used there was a
special kind of logic. To redeem himself from the bottom on the logic
pond Paul has since told us how come a meat packer lives in a private
house in the grounds of a stunning park. Paul and his partner used to
come to the park for picnics and kept on noticing that the house was
empty, so he headed down the council offices and asked them how much
they would charge him to live here. Relieved to have somebody willing
to live all the 12kms out from Gore (apparently the place wouldn’t rent
because people found it too far to travel!!!) they offered it to him
for NZ$90 per week (about £33 per week)…..it is stunning. He moved in
and he now lives in 95 hectares of gorgeously maintained lands in a
lovely private house with stunning views. Add to this the fact that
tonight we are camping up in the private gardens because we told him
that with all the social events here tomorrow we thought we wouldn’t
get much sleep you have a nice guy that, though a little slow, gets
there in the end and, it would seem, has enough intelligence to get the
bargain of the century.
Tomorrow we are
going to the “Moonshine” festival in Gore, hence the stopping here for
3 nights. Already the competitors for tomorrow’s big cycle race are
coming in large numbers and the site is getting very busy, but it
doesn’t matter to us, we have a large private garden to ourselves,
thanks to some fantastic hospitality.
Ah…the
moonshine festival, well it was never meant to be. We moved up into
the mountain that morning instead, driving to Queenstown to get a few
supplies. Bit weird how a country like New Zealand with such hard
ground doesn’t have anywhere supplying a tent peg armed with a spike
but I digress. We managed to get a few other bits sorted out, it was
as we went to leave that I realised my schoolboy error. I had been
counting February as a 31 day month….first time in my life for this,
nice to know that I am that far out of “reality” now. The end result
of this was that rather than have 8 days to check out the mountains
before picking up my Mum at Queenstown she would be arriving in 5
days. We drove a long way that day and landed ourselves in a nowhere
town to sleep. We cruised the mountain regions for a couple of days,
there were some places that really stood out here, but for anybody
wanting a stark environment that feels really remote for a few hours
and reminds us a little of Mongolia then check out the Lindis Pass.
2
days after leaving Queenstown we pulled into Omarua, which is a very
laid back desert town (more like a village to us, but to them it is
fairly big). We went to check out the campsite, but there was no
shelter whatsoever. Eventually we contacted the caretaker and rented a
caravan off her. We have never been in a caravan before and it was
funny to be in 4 walls again. |
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Australasia -
Australia
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Thursday, 19 April 2007 00:00 |
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All this sadness was blown into the past just a few
minutes later as Craig pulled up and here was my Cousin Marianne’s
firstborn Keanu, large as life saying “Hello” to me. And thus started
2.5 weeks of family onslaught that we would find ourselves bathing in
and fighting leaving.
For 2.5 weeks we
were fed, given a bed and entertained by Justin’s family in Perth. It
was lovely to see them all and get to meet all the new faces. Keanu is
a delight, a bright and loving 3 (nearly 4) year old with no
inhibitions, once in a while he does something out of character and you
are reminded that he is a 3 year old not a 5 year old. Throughout our
time there a variety of friends came to visit and used us as story
tellers, playmates and general trampolines. Cyrus is Holly’s (Holly is
my younger cousin) and is a bouncy, beefing little Tonka truck of a 6
month old boy. He is already part of the travelling community having
gone to England and Canada on holiday with his parents and he has a
permanently happy demeanour and is very determined. Charlotte is the
youngest at 10 weeks when we first met her and 12.5 weeks when we
left. It is amazing to watch such a young child grow in the space of
2.5 weeks. When we arrived she had feeding issues, but with a little
experimentation Marianne and Craig had this under control and she was
putting on great length, so it looks like she will follow her mother
into the nearly 6’ range. We spent a load of time with all the adult
relatives as well, but apart from telling you about how they are having
kids, their jobs, etc. it is just beautiful time spent with close
relatives that I rarely see. 2.5 weeks was not enough, but travelling
was calling us back to the road and we boarded a flight back to Sydney
feeling that we were going to miss out on watching these children grow
and change the way they had been for the past few weeks.
We
landed back in Sydney and within a few hours were having a couple of
drinks with my incredibly drunk sister and her not so sober boyfriend,
Adrian. The next 2 weeks were blurs of decision making,
disappointments and delight. There was a lot of family stuff to deal
with, but that was our thing. Finally 2 weeks later we left Australia,
sad to have to say goodbye to Justin's family after nearly 6 weeks
spent with them. It would be weird to get back on the road again.
Luckily we had a decent plan to help with all this. It was called, get
to Gili Air and stop there for a while. |
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Australasia -
New Zealand
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Friday, 09 March 2007 00:00 |
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We enjoyed our stay enough to return to the site 2
days later to give us the space to reorganise the car for Justin’s
Mum’s arrival. Her flight landed early and our first port of call was
Kinloch Lodge, a very nice retreat at the best of times, but after 3
weeks of living out of the car it was a true delight. Before the
amazing dinner Zoë and I took advantage of the hot tub whilst my Mum
had a nice long massage to get over her flight from England. We spent
the next few days drifting from one place to another, seeing new and
exciting parts of New Zealand. Not the parts that we were all
expecting!!! Driving along towards the vineyards I decided that we
should stop and show my Mum a bungee jumper jumping. The first 2 were
fairly interesting, but the 3rd caused a big stir. A group of lads had
their mate jumping for his stag do, but of course there had to be a
“stag” twist in there somewhere. It was not too original in it’s
twist, but bungee-jumping naked into a freezing river is certainly not
to be taken too lightly. With much coercing the brave man leapt off
with nothing more than the harness attached to his legs to cover him
up. Naturally the people running the jump centre dunked him a good 6
or 7 times before letting him down. With this experience behind us the
wine-tasting held very little fascination for us and we were soon
settling down at the edge of a gorgeous lake at a campground that Zoë
and I had used just a couple of nights earlier. The next day we headed
off through a gorgeous mountain path and returned to the West Coast and
onto Franz Joseph to see the glaciers. Obviously bored of hearing Zoë
and I harp on about the size of the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina
my Mum decided to up the ante. The next morning the 3 of us were at
the airfield at 9am for our own 30 minute private helicopter ride over
the glacier fields and up to the summit of a neighbouring mountain to
Mount Cook. Then we descended back through the glacier fields and over
Mount Cook’s shoulder. Our pilot, Nathan, was VERY generous and
ensured that our flight lasted 6 minutes longer than Mum had paid for.
Once we landed we all stood there with our mouths agog staring at the
retreating helicopter wishing the experience would never end. Luckily
I videoed around 15 minutes of it and there are loads of pictures in
the photos section.
Our final 2 days in
New Zealand were spent going from one nice cottage to another with the
glow-worms providing a, according to my Mum, highly amusing diversion
to the trip. Finally we boarded our separate (Mum had booked onto a
different) flights to fly to Sydney and, finally, catch up with my
sister (who I hadn’t seen in nearly 18 months.
The
time spent with my family was wonderful after having not been together
as a family in so long. We ate loads, drank a fair amount and spent a
lot of time in the swimming pool that is in the basement of my sister’s
apartment complex. |
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Australasia -
New Zealand
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Saturday, 10 February 2007 00:00 |
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After 16 hours on a fairly decent plane from Buenos
Aires we landed in Auckland to be met with our most stringent customs
checks so far. We were aware of these before we left Buenos Aires and
we had cleaned our camping stuff with this in mind, but none-the-less
having to tick a box saying that you are bringing prohibited stuff into
the country was proving to be a little daunting. It was a good thing
that all my training on the buses had led to me enjoying one of my best
nights sleep on a plane ever (people who knew me before this would know
that I never slept much on planes) and I was refreshed for this early
morning ordeal. You tick the little box saying that you are bringing a
tent into the country and you are told to head down to the “biohazard
control point”!!! This turns out to be a, very friendly giant, Maori
with rubber gloves. With a good sense of humour he asked us a few
questions and then explained that he would have to take our tent to the
“biohazard” laboratory. He assured us that this would not take long.
Credit where credit is due we had our tent back 15 minutes later,
having been inspected for nasties and our cleaning had done the trick.
We spent the next 5 hours in that “airport style coma” until our flight
to Christchurch.
On first impressions New
Zealand was not up to much. There are no historical buildings of note
and Christchurch was like a shitty back-water English town rather than
a major capital (being the administrative capital of the Southern
Island). We knew this was not our reason for being in New Zealand, but
we had 24 hours to kill until we picked up our hire car so we made the
best of it. The best of it turned out to be an Asian food court where
for very little money (by Kiwi standards) we could eat tons of really
good Asian food. We tucked into the best Thai since London and the
best Chinese since China. Sated we passed out with our jetlag kicking
in.
The next morning we awoke early to
head straight out to get our hire car which, (prepare for a shock) I
was pleased to see, was an Automatic Nissan Sunny. I normally would
not want to drive an automatic, but as we are here to see the country I
really wanted the simplest motoring that we could get our hands on.
Pleased with our hire (BTW it is high season here and we still managed
to get this car for about £12.50 per day) we headed off to kit it out
as we are living out of the car for 3 weeks (camping each night, so
really living out of the car). We bought a cooler bag for a fridge and
we were complete. We left Christchurch heading North with it in our
minds to go right up to Nelson and then back down the West coast.
After 12 months of linear travelling (i.e. you decide on your next
destination, buy a ticket and go where it takes you) we felt that we
had to stretch our legs with this new method of travelling, so about 1
hour up the coast we turned left and started a 2 day cut through to the
West coast.
After 24 hours in New
Zealand it all started to make sense. It is gorgeous. The further you
get away from civilisation and mass tourism the nicer it gets. We
headed into the Lewis Pass and the mountain started to rise up next to
us. Right, it is not as big as the Andes, nor as dynamic as the
landscapes of South America, but size is not everything and in this
case great things come in small packages. After being mind-blown by
the size of the Andes (up to 7,000m) and the width of the rainforests
of the Amazon or the length of the Pacific coastline it is nice to be
gently soothed round easy roads, through little villages and past
stunning little scenes. New Zealand does beauty the same way that
England does. It won’t break many records, but it will break many
hearts. Our first stop was the Leaping Frog coffee shop, and then onto
Hanmer Springs where it is possible to enjoy a long relax in a thermal
pool so we….went through a nutty maze and played crazy golf in the
pouring rain. Finally we turned the car into a free campsite. It was
muddy and full of flies. We rearranged our stuff in the boot and
decided to head off to buy some insect coils, but enroute we saw a sign
that was to change our evening and our choice of campsites for our trip
round New Zealand. “Marble Hill Campground”. Marble Hill is the name
of a park in Twickenham where I used to play rugby for Thamesians RFC.
So, omens being omens we turned in to camp for the night. Apart from
the sandflies (which are still being a problem to today) it was
gorgeous and we got a great night’s sleep. |
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